If you can drive in Seychelles, you can most probably drive anywhere else in the world. . .

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By Marilise Geldenhuys

The roads are quite narrow and very windy. Speeding on these roads is not an option.

Renting a small and reliable car is the way forward. The fuel consumption
will be low and the size of the car will make driving a lot easier.
Taking some of these corners can be quite scary, especially if you are
approaching a bus. But let me assure you, the bus drivers are experts and know what they are doing; Just slow down and let them have the corner before you do and
you’ll be fine.


Taking a bus at least once is an experience I would recommend. The cost of a trip is standardised at 5 Seychelles Rupees. You can get on and off almost anywhere and from Mondays through Saturdays they pass by approximately every 30 minutes (Sundays there are fewer busses running so expect to wait a little longer). Equip yourself with a bus schedule (available at the kiosk at the central terminal), a sense of where you are heading as well as a pocket full of change and the island is yours to explore . . .


Another option – unfortunately the most expensive – is getting around by taxi.
The vehicles are generally in great condition and the
taxi-drivers know the roads very well. Most of them may even be able
to assist with some tourism information.


You can literally go around the island in one day. Because of this it makes it a great benefit
to hire your own car - you can stop anywhere and anytime you like.
Travelling along the coast is a beautiful sight. On Mahé, the main road is
named 5th of June Avenue and extends across the whole of the island and you cannot lose you way when following this road.

There are many alternative roads which cut through the island, but
even though they look like short cuts, the speed you drive on them is
half the speed you would drive along the coast because of the
windiness. Along every road, around every corner there is something
spectacular to see. There is always a shop close-by, so you have
plenty of opportunities to stop for refreshments.


I always recommend to my guests to take a map and to go get lost and I
recommend the same to you dear reader and traveller.

Restaurant Review: Chilli Bar and Restaurant

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By Niki Gower

Fine-Dining with a breathtaking view 

Chill Bar and Restaurant - set on the La Misère road at Belle Vue on Mahé - has long been a favourite among Seychellois and visitors alike. Recently taken under new management this staple of the dining scene in Seychelles is going from strength-to-strength as it fine tunes the elements that make it such a  special experience eating there.
One of the biggest changes has been the change from a “steak-house” offering traditional meaty favourites to a fine-dining establishment, adding an air of refinement to Chilli Bar without losing any of its charm.

Under the leadership of Head-Chef Patrick Barbe, who recently won the “Main Course” division at the annual Seychelles National Culinary Contest, the improved menu offers diners a choice of dishes that are rooted in traditional Creole flavours that are accentuated by influences from other cultures, particularly the French cuisine culture. A Cuban taste even makes its way into the main course selection.

 Seychelles Livin' was recently hosted by Chilli Bar for a three course meal on a moonlit evening, with our table set on the restaurant’s veranda overlooking the breathtaking St. Anne Bay. For starters, my date and I shared the “Smoked Fish and Mango Salad” as well as the “Tuna Tartar”. Both were fresh and light, and a perfect start to whet our appetites. 

For Mains, I had the Fish Millefeuille, which features a fish millefeuille fillet stuffed with spinach fricassee, garnished tomato and basil comfit, and served with a portion of almond rice. Being a pescatarian (vegetarian that eats fish), I have had quite my fair share of the various fish dishes available in Seychelles, and this was definitely one of the tastiest and succulent I have had so far. 

My date had the Fish Curry from Cuba. Coconut,  peanuts, mint, lime and other selected spices make this curry something special – and I had to have a second tasting as it was so refreshing.

For dessert I had the Mint Parfait Glacer Mango Coulis and my date had the Passion Fruit Barvarois with Strawberry Coulis. Both were very tasty, but I must admit that the creamy silk-like texture of the parfait makes it my favourite of the two. 

When making the reservation I let slip that it was my date’s birthday that evening. Something that added an extra special touch was that on arrival we realised that the Chilli Bar team had set up an extra special table setting especially for us, which was laid out with tasteful and romantic decoration. This definitely show’s that Chilli Bar cares about the customer, and are willing to do that little bit extra to make your experience even better.


Recently, Chilli Bar announced that a new menu will be coming out soon, one which will also feature Chef Barbe’s award winning dish – a Mini Lamb Medallion with Hoisin Ginger Sauce and Red Wine jus garnished with Coconut Risotto with coconut milk and mushroom. 

This is in line with the new management’s tactic – that of regularly changing the menu to offer their loyal customers a fresh variety of dishes, taking them on a taste adventure as time unfolds. So if you haven’t had a chance to try some of the tantalising dishes off their current menu, I suggest you make a plan while there is still time left!

Having spoken to the newly appointed manager Ms. Brigitte Ponthin extensively on some of her ideas, I can attest that there are some great changes that the team will be implementing in the near future – changes that are guaranteed to further enhance your Chilli Bar experience. These include special theme nights, as well as bringing in a Sunday brunch offering, among others.

Day or night, Chill Bar offers one of the most breathtaking views available on Mahé, with a panoramic vista that reveals the Eden, St. Anne, Long, Moyenne and Cerf islands as they rest in the tranquil turquoise waters of the St. Anne Marine Park. On A clear day you can even see all the way to Praslin, including all the islands that surround it. 

So whether it’s a romantic dinner for two, a gathering among friends or a sunny lunch time affair on their garden terrace, Chilli Bar and Restaurant is a great place to share a meal and make fresh memories set in the sensational surrounds of Seychelles’ scenery.



{ This article, by Niki Gower, was originally published (in part) in the TODAY in Seychelles Newspaper on the 18.01.2013 (www.today.sc), and also appears on the travel blog www.seychellesliving.com. All photos copyright www.nikigowerphoto.com    email: niki@silverspoonmedia.biz }



Golf: Tee-off on the beach

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Courtesy: www.rudd.com

Four Seasons launches beach driving range on Mahé

Compiled, added to and adapted from: http://www.ftnnews.com

The Seychelles mainland of Mahé - with its small 9-hole course - may not be the golfer’s first choice destination, but Four Seasons Resort Seychelles has created a new Sunset Golf experience that is sure to compensate.


With the setup along the stunning Petite Anse beach and entirely encompassed in the horseshoe-shaped bay that the Resort surrounds, this mini-driving range is one of the most spectacular in the world.
As General Manager Alex Porteous explains the motivation behind this concept; "The Ocean is the perfect expanse in which to drive golf balls, but going against our resort’s “Living Values” philosophy by polluting the ecosystem with hundreds of golf balls is simply not an option. So we use Ecobioballs. This product is 100 percent safe to any plant and animal marine life
thanks to its cleverly-designed outer shell that biodegrades in less than 48 hours, releasing fish food into the water. So while you’re enjoying a fabulous evening of sunset golf, you can be safe in the knowledge that you are providing a sumptuous dinner for our local marine life."
So now you can tee-off into the great big blue with a clean conscience. Not only that, but you can combine it with a top-class experience.
Guests will have the opportunity to drive golf balls into the ocean, and try and reach the different yard-markers set out in the bay. This is of course is accompanied by delicious refreshing cocktails and an exquisite Seychelles sunset.
With a start time of 6:00 pm, the hour-long sunset can be enjoyed in full from the moment it begins on this west coast beach until it has dropped well below the horizon, throwing beams of orange, red and purple light across the sky.
Only one session can take place every evening, offering an exclusive experience, as the Resort’s Leisure Experience Manager Diarmuid Connolly explains. "This is the ultimate one-in-a-lifetime golfing experience and a truly unique evening in Seychelles. Even if you’re not a golfer, or you’re travelling with a golfer, you can try it out, and even if you discover you’re not the next US Masters champion, you can still enjoy a beautiful sunset and a cocktail."

“You normally play golf onto the green but, here in Seychelles, blue is the new green,” adds Mr. Porteous.

A game with 20 Ecobioballs, a sunset cocktail, use of clubs and driving mats is priced at €40 per person, plus service charge and local taxes.

As the world’s leading operator of luxury hotels, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts currently manages 91 properties in 37 countries.  Open since 2009, Four Seasons Resort Seychelles offers a vacation experience of unlimited variety, and the highly personalised experience that Four Seasons guests expect and value around the world.  Recent awards and honours include 4th Best Spa in Africa, Middle East and Indian Ocean as voted in the recent Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice, as well as inclusion in the World’s Top 100 Resorts by the Robb Report in May 2012. 

For more information on Four Seasons Resort Seychelles, visit www.fourseasons.com/Seychelles. 

Restaurant Review: La Plaine St. André

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Photo: www.nikigowerphoto.com
By Niki Gower

Fine dining in a classic setting

The restaurant at La Plaine St. André is housed in the main building of a heritage site that was originally established as a planter’s homestead over 200 years ago. An opportunity to dine amidst this pristinely preserved piece of living history is an honour in itself, even before you have even put the first bite of La Plaine St. Andre’s delicious cuisine to your lips.


The Trois Freres Distillery - the source of Takamaka Bay branded rum and vodkas - is also housed on the property. This blending of fine locally influenced cuisine and award winning spirits, which is set amidst the lush gardens and seeped in national history, makes for a unique and novel experience.

The restaurant and bar are set in the beautifully preserved original plantation house, sprawling out onto the encompassing veranda and into the beautiful garden. Stepping inside is like stepping back in time; diners are afforded the opportunity to relax and unwind in a living museum that is breathtaking in its aesthetics and atmosphere. Whether you prefer a veranda for a sit down meal,
sipping a rum on the comfy leather sofa’s as you share a moment with a friend, or enjoying sitting beneath the swaying leaves of an ancient tree in the courtyard, you are sure to find a spot that feels like it was made specifically for you!

The food is a fusion of local and fine dining cuisine, which sees a welcome degree of refinement to a menu heavily influenced by the traditional Creole favourites – a formula that compliments the setting perfectly!

Suggested Menu: What we had

La Plaine St. Andre's sushi platter 
STARTERS: If you are visiting the restaurant on the first Friday of the month, you will be visiting on “Sushi Night.” The Sushi platter is served with a delicious mushroom soup starter and a complimentary Saki taster. If sharing for two, the Sushi platter makes for a great starter. If you are not partial to Sushi, though, or visiting any other night, the Tempura Prawns are a delicious and light option. Another tasty starter to whet the appetite is the Tuna Tartar – a tender diced tuna loin served with a zesty flavouring.

COCKTAILS: The Beached Mojito is a winner.  This tropical twist on the traditional Mojito will leave you thirsty for more.

MAINS: the Octopus Coconut Curry is a refreshing rendition of this Creole favourite, and the fine-dining twist to the flavour will not disappoint. My partner had the Roast Vegetable and Octopus Salad, of which I had a taste and can attest that it is tasty and fresh option for anyone in the mood for a salad or something light as a main dish.

DESSERT: After all the above, neither of us were up to dessert, as much as we wished we were. The Banana and Ginger Crumble Tart and the Chocolate Fondant are two of the many reasons we will be back at La Plaine St. André again soon; their presentation and look is so good that we had to try them.

ENTERTAINMENT: This article would not be complete without mentioning the musical entertainment that added an extra special touch. The three piece roving band completed the magical atmosphere with their soulful melodies of guitar, drum and saxophone.

NIGHT CAP: No visit to the home of Takamaka Bay will be complete without taking up the restaurants offer of a rum tasting. For a very reasonable fee, you will be taken through the full range of their rum and vodka products, guided by one of the very knowledgeable bartenders. I recommend the rum tasting, as only by trying each one will you fine tune the distinction between them and find the Takamaka Bay product which is perfect for you.

La Plaine St, André is a great night out, whether you are treating that special someone to a romantic meal or just looking for a great place to unwind and have a drink (Happy hours are every Friday between 17:30 and 22:30). The restaurant offers something special to visitors and nowhere else can you enjoy great food, fine drink and a truly Seychelles’ experience – both past and present  - all in one unique package.

{ This article, by Niki Gower, was originally published (in part) in the TODAY in Seychelles Newspaper on the 14.12.2012 (www.today.sc), and also appears on the travel blog www.seychellesliving.com. All photos copyright www.nikigowerphoto.com    email: niki@silverspoonmedia.biz }

Hike to the Port Glaud Waterfall

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Looking for something to do on a sunny day in Seychelles? Why not get some friends together and enjoy the beautiful outdoors. A great day’s fun can be had visiting the Port Glaud Waterfall, which offers visitors magnificent scenery and a great place to swim. It is not really a hike either, as it is only a short and comfortable walk to the base of the main waterfall, and therefore does not require an athlete’s level of fitness to enjoy its cool waters.


However if you are in the mood to explore, and don’t mind getting a bit sweaty, then a hike to the top of the waterfall is a very rewarding experience. It is not an easy trip as there is no well defined path, but with a little determination and a healthy dose of bush-wacking you can get to the clearing at the top within 10 minutes. Once at the top of the falls, you will be rewarded with a stunning view down, as well as the opportunity to continue your hike and follow the river as it winds through palm groves and granite boulders, with many smaller waterfalls along its path. If a hike is what you are after, you can follow the river as far as you like, towards its source. On your return you will have the opportunity to cool off in the pool of the main falls as your reward.




Directions for getting there:  
  If using the bus, travel as far as the Port Glaud church and  get off at the open lot across the street. From there - driving or walking - you take a right at the church, and follow the road up along the mangroves on your left. You will arrive at a cluster of houses and continue go through the neighbourhood, keeping left when the road forks. You will eventually get as far a car can travel (dirt parking lot on the left, dont take the VERY steep right turn), and you will see the path leading off towards the waterfall on the left. From there it is a short five minute walk. If you would like to continue on to the top of the falls, then the path can be found on the left hand side of the water fall (It has been said if you take that very steep right turn you can get to the top of the waterfall by road, I can't verify this, so try so at your own risk)...

{ This article, by Niki Gower, was originally published (in part) in the TODAY in Seychelles Newspaper on the 11.07.2013 (www.today.sc), and also appears on the travel blog www.newworldnomad.blogspot.com. All photos copyright www.nikigowerphoto.com    email: niki@silverspoonmedia.biz }

Leaving home for my first taste of paradise

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O.R. Tambo International Airport (Johannesburg) is a strange place to be on a Sunday night. Usually buzzing with travelers and co; chaotically checking in, declaring something, saying goodbyes and welcoming loved ones bought in from the skies. Breathing people in from distant lands, and exhaling others in a steady cycle. Not on a Sunday. This huge space is empty. Its Eerie. The scattered employees man their posts, de-animated and robotic Vacant, distant, bored and sometimes lonely eyes stare back at me for a moment, and then flinch away. The odd traveler moves in seemingly slow motion as their paths intersect mine. I turn back and there is no trace of the full British Airways flight I came in on from Port Elizabeth, the passengers, the friendly couple sitting next to me, everyone seems to have been absorbed into the ether of this hollow space. I'm Lost. I zigzag through rows of cordoned off queuing corridors. Theres no-one else besides me and the teller within sight, he can here me coming, he can see me getting closer, then further, then closer again. After a half marathon of pushing my trolley through that maze I reach the front. . .

At this point I need to admit that I have had my oversized headphones on my ears since I checked-in in Port Elizabeth, my carefully selected playlist blasting out of my X10, keeping me securely inside my head, my eyes like a camera lens peering out of my hoodie. He lifts his head to greet me and I pull back my hoodie and slide my headphones around my neck...wow, its a whole other world out here.

Politely I am told I have walked in a full circle and pretty much right where I'd started. I look around but don't believe him. I am directed to the exact opposite side of the airport . . .

Woah! As I turn a corner I'm greeted by an airplanes count of people standing in the Air Seychelles check-in queue. There are only two flights to the Seychelles from South Africa, one on a Friday night, and the one that I am on: 23:55 on a Sunday night. I check-in and move through metal detectors, luggage scans and passport police and step into the International departures section of the airport.

Woah! Its like stepping through a portal into another world; All of a sudden there are open shops and and people everywhere. Its a shopping mall, Its almost midnight and I NEED a smoke . . .

I'm Sitting in the smoker's lounge of Ekaya: Destination Flavour. The Heineken I quaffed on on my connecting flight has led me here. Marzen Gold Draft in Hand. The air is heavy, saturated with the constant smoke of the travelers stranded here. In Limbo we wait, for journeys to begin, or mid-way between the places we just were, and the destinations where we will soon be. Spirits are high, Spirits are low. People are chatting, some sleeping, others just staring.
The Seychelles, I dont think its quite set in yet . . . *


* Words in Italics denote extracts from my hand written journal.